In contrast to these moody granite ridges and spires, Tombstone also encompasses the expansive Blackstone Uplands, a stretch of rolling tundra known for its abundant wildlife. Woodland caribou, grizzly and black bears, wolves and Dall sheep also live in the park, as do smaller mammals such as marmots, foxes and porcupines. The southern Dempster Highway is a hot spot for birding; in one afternoon we spotted tundra swans, a golden eagle, arctic terns, a rough-legged hawk and two kinds of ptarmigan.

For those travelling by car or RV, there are plenty of pullouts, viewpoints, day hikes and natural diversions. Leaving the highway, we walked through hip-high thickets of willow toward the Blackstone River. My feet sank into plush pillows of moss and lichen, and I was enveloped by the distinctive tundra aroma: a verdant, earthy mix of Labrador Tea, berry bushes and dwarf birch. Dropping to my knees, I found an extraordinarily complex world that begged the assistance of a good northern plant guide.